‘Na gìra ans el mercà [Alessandria ieri e oggi]

tony-ed-io-3-(2)di Tony Frisina e Antonio Silvani.

Una felicissima frase del sindaco Francesca Calvo fu: “E’ inutile far costruire sempre più supermercati… in Alessandria abbiamo il più bel supermercato che ci possa essere: via S. Lorenzo e piazza Marconi!”

Ed è vero tutti coloro che, come noi, hanno superato di venti anni ed anche più il mezzo del cammino della vita, si ricorderanno del mercato ortofrutticolo di piazza Marconi (vedi all. n. 1), si ricorderanno di quando, zampettando con madri o nonne, le accompagnavano a fare la spesa, si ricorderanno di Maddalena, Pietro, Augusto, ‘Delina, Hermosa e tutti gli altri che, in rigoroso dialetto alessandrino, parlavano, imprecavano, urlavano attiravano i clienti dai loro banchetti stracarichi, spesso sbilenchi.

1)-mercato-piazza-marconiIl mercato di piazza Marconi ne ha di anni, sicuramente nell’800 era già presente, qualcuno dice che  fosse ancora più vecchio.

L’all. n. 1a vediamo uno scorcio di questo mercato datato fine ‘800, primissimo ‘900.

Questa foto, forse un dagherrotipo, era talmente bella che Antonio la scelse per la copertina del suo dizionario:

Tüc i vóru pisè luntòn“, dice Antonio, “e alùra al fàs ònche méi e am büt a šbardlè cùla ròba fonda vìghi el mé disiunàri e ch’i ch’l à scrìc la prefasión: Umberto Eco! I dìši ch’a blàgh? Jéi rašón!

[“Tutti voglioni pisciare lontano”, dice Antonio, “e allora lo faccio anch’io e mi metto a spargere quella roba facendo vedere il mio dizionario e chi ha scritto la prefazione: Umberto Eco! Dite che mi vanto? Avete ragione!”]

L’all. n. 1b è un bellissimo acquerello che rappresenta il mercato di piazza Marconi negli anni ’50: i carretti dei verdurieri e dei fruttaroli ormai numerosissimi, uno attaccato all’altro, disposti du due, se non su tre, file.

Ammirando questo quadro pare quai di udire le voci dei venditori e dei clienti e di apprezzare i profumi e gli odori della merce.

Purtroppo non siamo stati in grado di scoprire il nome dell’autore dell’opera né di decifrate la firma ed è una grave lacuna, lo ammettiamo, però confidiamo nella bravura di qualche lettore per illuminarci.

L’all. n. 1c è uno scorcio del mercato com’è attualmente. Nulla da dire: anche se i prezzi, in proporzione, sono forse un po’ più alti, le bancherelle sono indubbiamente più ordinate, c’è meno caos, non escludiamo che l’igiene sia migliorata, ma il fascino di allora ce lo sogniamo e più non si sente l’accattivante lingua di Gagliaudo, sostituita da un italiano con inflessione giargianese.

Sicuramente qualche rana dalla bocca larga bercerà che noi siamo i soliti “difensori tardivi delle bellezze locali” e che dovremmo pensare al presente: la mission di questo blog è stata estrinsecata fin dall’inizio, per cui se qualcuno non ci legge e cosa più importante, non ci infrange i cabasisi, farà solo bene!

2)--piazza-marconiLa cartolina (all. n. 2) mostra una meravigliosa prospettiva di piazza Marconi nel 1952. Allora non esistevano quasi automobili, ma solo biciclette e, per il trasporto merci (vedi quasi al centro della foto) c’erano i carretti.

Al pianterreno della casa indicata dalla lettera a si notano le due vetrine di un’osteria che fino all’inizio degli anni ’70 fu frequentata dai Goliardi alessandrini per pranzi e cene sia ufficiali che privati.

Andando avanti di non oltre 20 metri in via della Vittoria, sulla sinistra c’era l’altra sede di baccanali Goliardici.

In entrambi questi locali si poteva degustare il büšechén (porzione di trippa), detto anche pìcula (piccola), che consisteva in una porzione abbondante di trippa in umido, una pagnotta ed una tazza da un quartino di barbera. Questo cibo di sapore ottimo ed abbondante saziava gli studenti le cui tasche erano più vuote dello stomaco!

3)-ecomostri-p-za-MarconiLe vecchie case di piazza Marconi, indicate dalle lettere a, b e c, furono demolite tra gli anni ’60 e ’70 per far posto a delle costruzioni (vedi all. n. 3), da noi chiamate “ecomostri” che nulla avevano da spartire con l’architettura della piazza.

Nell’all. n. 2d vediamo una freccia con la scritta la céša e nell’all. n. 3d possiamo apprezzare il punto, nella casa precedentemente demolita, in cui era sita questa chiesa.

La céša  era un luogo di culto così chiamato dagli adoratori del dio Bacco, era la vineria F.lli Boido, rinomatissimo locale di vendita e mescita di vini e liquori, che, come tutte le chiese, doveva essere visitato almeno una volta al giorno. Questo locale, in tutt’altra forma, indubbiamente più elegante ed esclusiva, si è spostato più avanti in via S. Lorenzo.

Il “supermercato alimentare” citato dalla Calvo comprendeva anche via S. Lorenzo, con i suoi negozi (ben pochi ne sono rimasti da allora) ed il Mercato Coperto.

Le sue tre entrate sulla via di questo mercato portavano in un mondo “magico” per i bambini, anche perchè dalla parte opposta a via S. Lorenzo c’era un ingresso che introduceva ai grandi magazzini UPIM di corso Roma, in cui i giocattoli facevano la loro notevole parte.

4)-vecchio-mercato-copertoL’all. n. 4 mostra l’esterno del Mercato Coperto e precisamente verso la fine degli anni ’50 (a) ed esattamente nel 1985 (b). La foto, che immortala, la moglie e la figlia maggiore di Antonio, fu scattata proprio il giorno di capodanno.

Dal confronto tra le due foto c’è da notare che poco o nulla era stato fatto, se non qualche “taccone” alla struttura esterna e, onestamente, all’interno era stato fatto meno ancora.

Il Mercato Coperto ospitava tutti i negozi o banchi di vendita possibili ed immaginabili di ogni tipo di cibo: macellai posti in botteghe in muratura e poi banchi di pizzicagnoli, acciugai, pollivendoli, pescivendoli (si potevano acquistare tinche ed anguille vive), verdurieri e fruttivendoli; c’era persino una drogheria vecchio stampo, che vendeva veramente di tutto.

I prezzi erano per tutte le tasche, ma per lo più abbordabili e la gente era soddisfatta.

5)-nuovo-mercato-coperto-(2)Purtroppo, anche a quei tempi era già così: il complesso edilizio del mercato faceva gola a qualcuno e, non appena si vide che erano fondamentali ed urgenti dei lavori per migliorarne l’igiene e la sicurezza, fu decretata la chiusura del mercato con la promessa (vedi all. n. 5a) che sarebbe rivissuto abbellito e migliorato per tutti i venditori ed i clienti.

Correva il 22 dicembre del 1992 ed i Pinocchi allora amministratori fecero si (dando permessi su permessi) che il glorioso Mercato Coperto, invece di essere restaurato con modica spesa, fosse raso al suolo ed al suo posto sorse (all. n. 5b) quello che c’è adesso… bèla ròba.

Gli Alessandrini ad un certo punto si levano l’anello dal naso e la sveglia al collo e reagiscono (stia attenta l’attuale giunta) e così accadde: a parte qualche sporadico tentativo, subito abortito, neppure un metro quadrato del nuovo mercato coperto fu affittato (a parte i negozi che danno sulla strada) ed i commercianti pensarono bene di andare in altri posti a vendere la loro merce.

mercato-copertoIl mercato coperto di Alessandria non era la Rinascente di Milano ed a nessuno passava per l’anticamera del cervello che lo dovesse diventare: i marmi e le scale mobili non servivano assolutamente a nulla… (vedi all. n. 6) la gente lo voleva come prima!

In tutte le città, non solo del Piemonte, ci sono mercati coperti dell’epoca del nostro demolito, sono stati soggetti a restauri per adeguarli alle leggi, ma nessuno si sognò mai di demolirli…

Ma in Alessandria vige la triste abitudine di…

187 Comments

  1. Aldo Raimondi (Roma, 1902 – Milano, 1997) è stato un pittore italiano.

    Nato a Roma nel 1902, compie nella stessa città del Lazio il suo iter artistico, nello studio di Giuseppe Signorini, laureandosi in architettura all’Accademia di Belle Arti, quando aveva circa 22 anni.
    Tra il 1925 ed il 1926 è a Milano, dove presta servizio militare di leva, e affresca una caserma milanese, restaurando alcune delle sale di Palazzo Cusani, sede del Comando di Corpo d’Armata.
    Si trasferisce a Parma nel 1926, ed inizia ad insegnare nel locale Istituto d’Arte: quando arriva nella città emiliana, è già un artista fatto e s’inserì senza sforzo in un ambiente non facile che gli divenne subito amico per le straordinarie doti native, per la sicurezza del mestiere e il carattere accattivante.
    A Parma, esegue alcuni acquerelli della veduta sulla città vecchia commissionatigli dal podestà, ancora oggi visibili nel Palazzo Comunale, che gli danno prova della sua bravura come vedutista, attività che continuerà e che svolgerà in diverse città, sia esse italiane o straniere.
    A Parma nel 1930 organizza una sua prima mostra personale, che sarà seguita da altre numerose esposizioni in Italia e all’estero.
    Specializzatosi nella pittura ad acquerello, pezzo esclusivo del suo repertorio, ottiene nel 1939 all’Accademia di Brera una cattedra l’insegnamento di questa tecnica, cattedra che lasciò nell’immediato dopoguerra per dedicarsi a tempo pieno alla professione di realizzatore. Egli dipinge paesaggi, animali, fiori e numerosi ritratti, tra cui quelli dei papi Pio XII, Giovanni XXIII (1958) e Paolo VI (1966).
    Realizza inoltre alcune vetrate per il Seminario Arcivescovile di Monza, per la parrocchiale di Menaggio presso Como e per la chiesa di San Simpliciano a Milano.
    Dal 1938 al 1940 sostituì Achille Beltrame nell’illustrazione della «Domenica del Corriere»; in seguito fu chiamato ad illustrare «Il Popolo di Torino».

  2. Tony, come sempre “alla grande”!
    Mi domando solo una cosa: che cosa ne faranno di questo baraccone la cui utilità in via S. Lorenzo è quella di una tetta su di un toro?

  3. è stato un flop continuo in certe scelte in questa città. In certe città i supermercati e centri commerciali non hanno soppiantato il mercato coperto alimentare come non sostituiranno il mercato ambulante. Ma tempo al tempo, se parliamo di Alessandria appena i “cementificatori” inizieranno a far scavare sotto piazza Garibaldi facendo sloggiare anche i nostri ambulanti faranno sparire anche quelli.

  4. se non ricordo male la casetta a della fig. 2, che ricordo abbandonata e ‘palizzata’ fino agli anni ’70, era la famigerata ‘casa di Olmo’, oggetto di leggende fosche su urli e ululati nelle serate nebbiose – ma forse erano spiriti di altro genere!

  5. Cara Tiziana, Olmo aveva la sua bottega di calzolaio un po’ più avanti in via della Vittoria, più o meno dove c’era il forno della bellecalda, più o meno dove oggi c’è il negozio della Talmone. Dove invece questo “gentiluomo” abitasse, lo ignoro.

  6. Ciao a tutti! Ora ho 53 anni e del mercato di Piazza Marconi negli anni 70 ricordo quando mia nonna mi portava con se a far la spesa. Ero un bambino ed il banchetto che più di tutti m’incuriosiva era sito all’angolo di via Legnano. Era un carretto, con tanto di tenda a mo di tetto, nel quale erano esposti centinaia e centinaia di limoni, eran cosi numerosi che la mia mente fantasiosa di adolescente li immaginava come una piramide dorata. L’omino esile che si occupava della loro vendita continuava a ripetere instacabilmente a voce alta come una cantilena…..”limon limunen, limon limunen”. Peccato che certe figure non esistano più!!!!

  7. Peccato che la Calvo abbia dato l’autorizzazione a costruire il primo centro commerciale di Alessandria… la Bennet. Che ha segnato l’inizio della fine del commercio alessandrino. Anche per colpa sua ovviamente. Ma i politici sono ingrassati con supermercati e centri commerciali… alla faccia di tutte le belle parole…

  8. Non sono mai stato un difensore della Calvo e lo sanno tutti che da consigliere comunale della Lega fui secondo firmatario di una mozione di sfiducia nei suoi confronti. Però mi sembra che certi j’accuse siano esagerati.
    Un centro commerciale allora poteva anche starci, visto che in tutte le città erano presenti e sempre ben accetti dalla gente.
    Se mai la colpa della fine del commercio alessandrino va a coloro che hanno permesso lo spuntare più o meno indiscriminato di tutti gli altri centri commerciali, iper e supermercati di ogni tipo.
    E’ da ipocriti pseudomoralisti dare della puttana ad una donna che si accoppia solo col suo uomo…

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